A glass of champagne is a classic image of luxury and celebration. But it's also a drink with a fiercely protected heritage. France has vowed to stand by its producers after Moscow introduced a law that forces the word "champagne" to be removed from labels of products not made in Russia. 

The legislation forces fizz from France's Champagne region to be called "sparkling wine," putting the rolling vineyards of eastern France at the center of an international row.

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For the trade association that represents the interests of champagne producers, Moscow's move was unexpected and unwelcome. "Naturally, the new regulation was a shock for people here, who have been deprived of their name," said Charles Goemaere, the director of the Champagne Committee. 

"It's a name that was set up a long time ago to inform the consumer of the characteristics and origin of the product. It's their shared heritage, something they are very attached to so now not having the right to use this name has been a shock," he added. 

The situation was so serious that two French government ministers made an urgent visit to the region to reassure wine sector representatives. 

"We think that the path of negotiation is the best possible path so that we can obtain the protection for these geographic designations," said Franck Riester, France's junior trade minister. 

"We are determined to protect the interests of these sectors, the interest of the champagne sector."

Russia's President Vladimir Putin signed off on the new law earlier in July. Putin has previously tightened controls on imported food and drink to favor local producers.

Russia is not one of the world's biggest champagne markets, but Russians tend to buy expensive brands. Wine industry representatives say Moscow is willing to negotiate but French producers are being advised to suspend exports to Russia. 

The French government says champagne is a protected heritage product and has warned it could seek redress through the World Trade Organization.

_{Cover image: REUTERS/Tatyana Makeyeva/File Photo}