Foie gras starting to disappear from plates in France

Fabien Borgel is a chef in Paris, and foie gras is on his menu. But it's not as you might imagine.

"My foie gras is plant-based, gluten-free and animal-cruelty-free," says Borgel. Sunflower seeds, coconut oil, and turmeric are all used to make what he calls 'faux gras'. It's a new version of an old classic in France.

"The customers were happy to see something new because most of them don't eat foie gras anymore. Then they see in my carte the 'faux gras', and they want to try that," he says.

The French delicacy is a controversial food due to concerns related to its production. It is made from the fattened livers of ducks or geese.

Foie gras producers argue that the dish is part of France's culinary culture. Critics say force-feeding ducks and geese is inhumane and causes breathing difficulties and liver damage.

The president of the Foie Gras Producers' Committee says the act of force-feeding lasts only four minutes during a duck's life. Fabien Chevalier says that "if the job is done well, there is absolutely no problem."

At the Paris Agriculture Show in March, several different types of foie gras were on offer. But despite its popularity at the farming fair, outside the capital, the traditional dish is starting to disappear from plates in a growing market in France for animal-free dishes.

Citing animal-rights issues, cities like Bordeaux, Strasbourg and Nantes no longer serve foie gras at official city hall functions, in school cafeterias, or at nursing homes.

Meanwhile, the French delicacy has become a British political hot potato. Ahead of the 2024 UK election, the Labour party committed to banning the import of foie gras – but now in government, Labour ministers have backed away from the pledge.

Animal rights activists say they are concerned that a proposed trade deal between the UK and the EU may loosen food restrictions and veterinary checks at borders.