Chinese designers shine at London Fashion Week

Some of the world's top fashion designers have been showcasing their Autumn/Winter 2024 collections at London Fashion Week. Among the designers causing excitement are several from China.

Susan Fang, whose designs are stocked by Net-A-Porter and Selfridges, was born in the Chinese city of Ningbo. The theme of her latest collection is 'home', with her design team looking at how different creatures on land and sea define what a home is. 

Fang said the topic is something deeply personal to her, having moved many times during her life. "We feel, especially in this time now, we ought to bring a sense of peace and harmony to the world and to understand the concept of home," she told CGTN.

"I've migrated a lot since I grew up and I've noticed where love is, that's where you feel home. That's why we explored a lot of sea creatures, birds and bees and we were really amazed that the possible definition was way more than humans have."

Fang is collaborating with American lingerie giant Victoria's Secret for a new collection that launches in China in April. She splits her time between London and Shanghai and her set for the show was designed by a Chinese team and shipped over for London Fashion Week. She insists her Chinese heritage is very important.

"My parents are very traditional Chinese but at the same time, I think the way they grew up, they have so much love for their children and they have so much strength," Fang said.

"China is very adaptable to change, so my parents were always very supportive and open for me to travel wherever my passion was. That's the beauty of China now, it's so fast, it's got the best technology, the best manufacturing and also the openness to different cultures."

Another Chinese designer showcasing her latest collection at London Fashion Week is Yuhan Wang from Weihai. She studied at Central Saint Martins in London and is one of the recipients of the British Fashion Council's NEWGEN scheme that supports up and coming talent.

Wang argues that it can be tough for new designers to get started and have the funds to build a team and that without platforms like NEWGEN it would be very difficult for her to have achieved what she has.

Her designs are based on feminine power and her latest collection is called 'The Trials' and pays homage to famous women in the legal system – including Sandra Day O'Connor, the first woman to serve as a U.S. Supreme Court Justice.

"I looked at the legacy from them, how they contributed to gender equality, they really inspire me," Wang explained. "They are so brave and their courage, they inspire generation by generation."

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Making her London Fashion Week debut is Momo, the designer behind Chinese brand Momonary. She opened London Fashion Week and the brand has collaborated with industrial manufacturer 3M. Almost half of the collection is made of 3M's Thinsulate that mimics natural feathers.

Momo's theme is maps, hand painted onto her designs. The collection reflects her love of hiking – a passion she discovered in London. She hopes the designs will inspire people to try new experiences.

While New York, Paris and Milan are said to favor the luxury powerhouses, London is globally renowned for championing new and emerging design talent. Chief Executive of the British Fashion Council, Caroline Rush, described London Fashion Week as a hotbed for young and international talent, especially from China.

Susan Fang, Yuhan Wang and Momo Fang are among a growing wave of Chinese designers making their mark in the world of fashion. Fashion experts predict that after impressing in London, the next step will involve making an impact in what's been called the style capital of the world, Paris.

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