WATCH: Pablo Gutierrez reports on the winemakers fighting back 

In the past two years, Hungarian winemakers have faced substantial financial turmoil due to the repercussions of COVID and the Ukraine conflict. Many have been compelled to downsize their workforce or, in some cases, close their doors. 

Nevertheless, in one prominent winemaking region, a renewed sense of optimism is bubbling up.

Nestled in Hungary's picturesque Etyek-Buda wine region, local winemakers are at the forefront of a sparkling revolution. 

A century ago, Hungary held the distinction of being the world's second-largest producer of this type of wine, trailing only behind France. However, the tumultuous events of the 20th century changed everything. 

Today, Etyeki viticulturists are on a mission to rekindle their legacy and carve a place on the global stage.

Tamás Hernyak, co-owner of the Hernyak Estate, aptly captures the shifting landscape: "On one hand, there is more appetite for sparkling on the market; on the other hand, there are fewer producers." 

Hernyak's winery, like many in the region, has battled for its existence. Heavily reliant on wine tourism, it was dealt a blow by COVID, with the Ukraine conflict further hampering its recovery. 

Hernyak revealed a stark example, stating: "One tourist agency made a reservation for 400 people last May and then they canceled it in the second week of the war."

The soil and climate in Etyek closely resemble those of France's renowned Champagne region, prompting local wineries to dedicate their efforts to crafting high-quality sparkling wines. 

They employ the esteemed Méthode Traditionnelle, a meticulous double fermentation process that imparts the distinctive effervescence associated with the finest sparkling wines.

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Hernyak elaborated on their techniques, saying: "We are using four types of wine grapes which are the best for sparkling wines and the minimum aging is 24 months, quite extensive for sparkling wine." 

These adaptations were instrumental in securing the EU's prestigious Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), a historic first for Hungary.

Winemakers in Etyek are buoyed by the prospect that official protections for their product will fuel their economic resurgence and position Etyek among the world's pre-eminent hubs of sparkling wine. Currently, Hungary produces around 20 million liters of sparkling wine each year, with 80 percent consumed domestically. 

However, experts hold the hope that the new PDO designation for Etyek's sparkling wines will capture the attention of a broader international audience when the inaugural vintage hits the market in January.

Peter Juhasz, a wine distributor in Budapest, expressed his elation at this recognition, believing it will bolster exports and serve as an incentive for other regions to seek official protections for their products. 

Hernyak aspires to mirror the success of France's Champagne region while underscoring that his sparkling wines will retain their unique characteristics, serving as a testament to Etyek's essence.

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