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Rising costs leave Greek dairy farmers cheesed off

Evangelo Sipsas in Athens

02:01

In kitchens across Greece, shopping baskets are shrinking as prices climb, and on the country's rugged hillsides, farmers are fighting just to keep their herds alive. 

It's a squeeze at both ends of the food chain — and it's pushing Greece's beloved dairy tradition to the brink.

At dawn in the hills outside Athens, livestock farmer Magda Kontogianni begins another 16-hour day. 

For her, tending animals isn't a job; it's a way of life handed down through generations. But today, that life comes with a brutal bill. 

"Many times we're just breaking even, so we can deliver the best product," she tells CGTN. "Energy is unbearably expensive for us. We cut down on our own household costs just to keep the herd alive."

Livestock farmer Magda Kontogianni tends to her herd of dairy goats. /CGTN
Livestock farmer Magda Kontogianni tends to her herd of dairy goats. /CGTN

Livestock farmer Magda Kontogianni tends to her herd of dairy goats. /CGTN

Shoppers feel the pain, too. A kilo of feta — a weekly staple for many Greek families — can now run close to $20, turning a household essential into a luxury. Yet the farmers producing the milk aren't cashing in. 

"Back in the 1970s, producers got 70 percent of the final price. Today it's just 20 percent," Kontogianni says. "When I see what I sold cheaply being sold so high, it's frustrating."

On the ground, the math is merciless: feed, fuel and electricity costs have surged, while the price paid to producers lags far behind supermarket tags. 

Farmers across Greece say the rising costs of animal feed is crippling them. /CGTN
Farmers across Greece say the rising costs of animal feed is crippling them. /CGTN

Farmers across Greece say the rising costs of animal feed is crippling them. /CGTN

Farmers across Greece echo Kontogianni's anger, while consumer advocates call it a lose-lose situation. 

Apostolos Raftopoulos of the Consumers' Union of Greece warns that "from the field to the shelf, every product multiplies in price three, four, even 10 times. Producers and consumers both lose out."

The government insists it's taking action. Spokesperson Pavlos Marinakis points to tougher inspections, penalties for profiteering, and targeted relief for farmers. 

"We are strengthening inspections to ensure fair pricing and supporting producers with targeted aid. Our goal is to protect both farmers and families," he says.

Back on the farm, Kontogianni believes resilience alone won't save Greece's dairy heritage. Only fairer prices for producers, she argues, can keep Greek milk and cheese — and the traditions behind them — alive for the next generation.

For farmers, for families, and for Greece's table, the fight over dairy isn't just about numbers — it's about survival.

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