Cheese wars: Switzerland's legal fight against Europe over Emmental

Switzerland and the EU are fighting over Emmental. 

The Swiss claim exclusive rights to the cheese which originates from the country's Emme valley. But Austria and other countries say the dairy product has become a European brand.

This comes as Swiss Emmental production declined by a third in the last 10 years. European consumption of the medium-hard cheese, especially in Italy, is dwindling. Competition for a narrowing market is getting tougher.

"Switzerland is a high-price area, so of course it's not so easy to compete on outside markets with their products," head of the Austrian Dairy Association Johann Költringer told CGTN.

Austrian or Swiss?

The Swiss argue Emmental is not just a cheese but a piece of cultural identity, so should be called 'Emmental from Austria' or 'Emmental from Germany' to show the geographical difference when produced outside Switzerland.

After the EU ruled against recognizing the Emmental trademark two years ago, the Swiss decided to file an appeal in April, prompting Austria and other countries to back Brussels in the cheese fight.

"It's not justified to forbid Emmental because in Austria we have this generic type of cheeses since more than a 100 years," Költringer added. 

"We are proud to say we produce original Emmental cheeses."

Because the Swiss cheese spread to other countries a long time ago, it is too late to protect the name now, says Austria, which produces 14,000 tons of Emmental each year, more than Switzerland does.

Champagne can only be labeled as such if it's produced in that region of France.

Parmigiano Reggiano must come from specific areas of Italy. Austria and Switzerland's dairy farmers may have to wait until next year for a final court ruling on Emmental, and whether it will join the ranks of products protected by their geographic origin.