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For a few evenings each June, the Tisza River turns into a stage for a spectacle of life and death. Millions of mayflies rise from the water, mate in mid-air, then fall — their brief moment complete.
"It's a beautiful miracle to witness," said Arpad Olah of Mindszent's water sports association. "I'm crying tears of joy and happiness. It fills me with so much emotion, I can hardly put it into words."
The phenomenon, called Tiszavirágzás or the Blooming of the Tisza, lasts just hours. But that narrow window has begun to shift.
Long-tailed mayflies (Palingenia longicauda) mate on the surface of the Tisza river near Tiszainoka in June 2017. /Laszlo Balogh/Reuters
"Climate change is playing a bigger role every year," said Gabor Csehó, a biologist with the Mora Ferenc Museum. "When summer comes early, the mayflies bloom earlier, sometimes as early as May. If we experience extreme weather, such as a sudden cold front, the bloom can be delayed."
The insects spend three years in the riverbed as larvae. When water temperatures rise too quickly, the oxygen level drops, threatening their development.
"It throws off their whole development," Csehó said.
This year, the bloom came early — again. Scientists say the trend is linked to warming rivers across Europe.
Luckily, the Tisza River still supports this fragile species. But mayflies have vanished from many other European rivers.
"These days, the Tisza and a few nearby waterways are the only places where you can still see it," said Csehó.
A man holds a long-tailed mayfly in the Tisza river in 201. /Laszlo Balogh/Reuters
Locals are taking notice. Ahead of the bloom, Olah and other residents joined forces to clean the river. They pulled trash from the banks and cleared driftwood.
For them, the river is more than scenery — it's a lifeline.
"We need to do a lot more for the river," Olah said. "Most people respect it, but it's not enough. I think schools should teach kids to care for the environment and keep it clean. Because if we don't, there won't be much left to pass on to our grandchildren."
In Szeged, a bronze statue stands near the riverbank. It depicts a mayfly in mid-flight. Next to it, an old Hungarian poem links the insect's bloom to the city's rebirth after a devastating flood.
"The poem is called After the Flood," said local guide Andras Monostori. "For the poet, the blossoming of the Tisza meant the city was healing, coming back to life."
But scientists warn that if climate trends continue, this healing ritual may not last.
If the mayflies disappear, the silence that follows could affect the entire ecosystem — from fish and birds to the people who call this river home.