Facing the chop: One of Europe's oldest meat markets set to close

As London sleeps through the early-morning hours, Smithfield meat market is a hive of activity. 

"We're selling it to butchers, small supermarkets, caterers, hotels, anyone who wants to buy meat," says Greg Lawrence. He's worked there since 1966, building up a successful family business in the meat trade and becoming chairman of Smithfield Market Tenants Association. 

"We're serving all London, the southeast of London, all the institutions, the prisons, the care homes, the hospitals, the schools - directly and indirectly. So, it's very important."

Opening every weekday at 3am, Smithfield is one of Europe's largest and oldest wholesale meat markets. It dates back to at least the 11th century - at which point it was outside the walls of the young city - as an open-air market selling live animals from around the country.

In 1868, it relaunched as a wholesale meat market in a specially designed building, but little else has changed over the years. In the shadows of the City of London's high-tech financial HQs, this is a market full of heritage and tradition. 

But now, the City of London is calling time on this centuries-old tradition. In November 2024, it proposed closing Smithfield market by 2028 – angering many Londoners: a public petition to stop the closure collected 30,000 signatures. 

A new Smithfield on the horizon

However, in December traders agreed a settlement with the City of London, with plans to build a 'New Smithfield' at an as yet undecided location within London's M25 orbital motorway. There is a precedent for London's venerable markets moving: Covent Garden's fruit and vegetable hub relocated in the 1970s after 300 years in the heart of the capital.

With no room to expand and frustrated by city-center problems of traffic and emission charges, most traders are ready to move on. "It is the right time now – I wouldn't have said that 10 years ago," says Lawrence. "It'll be quite emotional for me because I've been here since 1966 – but the road closures, the emissions, everything is against it at the moment."

The City of London's Policy Chairman, Chris Hayward says, "We've worked closely with the traders and thank them for their input and understanding.  We're committed to making sure they have the financial support and guidance they need to transition seamlessly and successfully to new locations."

London Museum is set to take over the site when it eventually closes, meaning the history will at least be preserved. Traders are still working on securing a new location, which is yet to be announced. Wherever they end up moving, they will hope to take with them Smithfield's tradition, atmosphere and commercial viability.