Fashion designer Demna Gvasalia has shocked the industry by resigning from his own brand, Vetements.

The 38-year-old enfant terrible had courted controversy as part of the 'poverty chic' movement, which some saw as belittling the downtrodden. However, his defenders noted that his sense of humour helped to prick the pomposity of the fashion industry. 

Georgia-born Gvasalia, a vegetarian who studied international economics at Tblisi State University before converting to fashion, adapted famous logos like Amazon, Mastercard and the anarchy symbol, subverting their original messages. When luxury brand Balenciaga invited him aboard, he produced a $2,000 version of the 99-cent Ikea carrier bag. 

He also staged his shows in provocative settings like gay sex clubs, flea markets and downmarket restaurants. His final Vetements show - at a McDonald's on the Champs Elysees - provoked controversy with a "Don't Shoot" T-shirt modelled on one worn by war-zone journalists during the 1982 war in Lebanon.

Gvasalia set up Vetements with his brother Guram, who will stay at the company. The brand has 3.5m followers on Instagram and its clothes have been worn by famous names including Kanye West and Jared Leto.